HAPPY NEW YEAR!

This is always an interesting time of year for me in the hair salon. It’s the time of year when I encounter new clients that are looking for change. Besides from hearing about how their old hairstylist didn’t really care about hair care or lying and saying that she “specialized in natural hair”. On top of complaining about different salon experiences some of these ladies have just had enough. Over processed from relaxers, dramatic shedding, color damage, heat damage, breakage from extensions, and a bad break up all lead to these two words BIG CHOP. 

What is the BIG CHOP?

Is an act of cutting off all of your relaxed or damage hair, leaving only your new growth.

When I do consultations with ladies that want the BIG CHOP I usually ask (in no particular order)……

  1. When was your last chemical service?
  2. How often do you visit the salon?
  3. Have you ever worn short hair?
  4. How recent was your break up or emotional traumatic event in your life?
  5. Do you have any insecurities with features on your face?
  6. How is your lifestyle? (Workout, a mom, work in corporate, etc.)
  7. What is your ultimate hair goal? (Health, Length, Density)

I know you thinking….SHE ASK SOME WEIRD QUESTIONS!!!!!

All these things are important when you consider making dramatic changes to your appearance. It can be really deceiving when you have all these inspiration pictures from Pinterest and I tell you oh that’s a rod set that’s not a wash and go and your texture is similar to that AT ALL. Short hair cuts can be very low maintenance for some and for others it takes some work. I will never stop talking about moisture because dry hair doesn’t grow. So lets say you get this lil hair cut and don’t use the proper products for moisture and then your hair starts looking patchy. Guess what if you don’t take care of long hair you won’t take care of short hair.

It’s not magic. You hair won’t just starting flourishing and your curls won’t start popping. SISSSSSSSS you may not have “curls”. Texture Identity is important when making this decision as well. KINKY, COILY, CURLY, AFRO (lol) which one are you. Once that is identified you have to embrace it and get you a regimen that works for your texture NOT the ” beauty guru” on YOUTUBE.

There is no hiding that left eyebrow that is thinner than the right one. Yep no more hiding under that swoop.

Emotional cutting usually leads to 4 weeks of happiness and a year of disappointment until your hair grow back out. I remember one year I had a client that wanted me to color her platinum and cut it really short the day before she buried her husband. My exact words to her was ” I will not let you sit on that front row looking like a stranger”.  It wasn’t a good time for “something different”. Stress and Depression will kick your butt after major things like that happen and it will show up in your hair as BALD SPOT. Short hair shows it all.

The perfect candidate for the BIG CHOP is the lady who is ready to move forward with healthy hair. I ask that my BIG CHOP clients come into the salon for monthly maintenance just so that I am sure that they are using the right products and techniques that will help them reach their hair goal. 

 

  1. Tangle Teaser
  2. Denman Brush
  3. Hair Steamer
  4. Pravana Leave In Conditioner
  5. Babybliss Titanium Flat Iron
  6. Argan Oil
  7. Castor Oil
  8. Design Essential Silk Essentials
  9. Carbon Combs
  10. Olaplex

I use most of these things in the salon on a everyday basis. That Tangle Teaser!  LISTEN! My entire clientele is filled with ladies with a plenty of hair and I firmly believe in strand integrity this little do hiccky gets the job done during the detangling process.

Carbon Combs are also my favorite for silk outs they assist me in the silk out process. They are anti static and very light in my hand.

I pair Argan Oil with my conditioner cocktail under the hair steamer. The hair steamer allows  the cuticle layer of the hair to actually open up and allow the oil and the conditioner to penetrate.

OMG as a colorist OLAPLEX is a must, and I have went into a whole panic when I didn’t have any for a particular client. I do a lot of color but in most cases the clients have been previously colored and we call OLAPLEX hair insurance. It allows me to color hair without ripping it to shreds.

Sooo if you read my previous post of about flat irons you understand why I love my babybliss iron is on my favorite things list. Its best used on course hair and its magical on extensions.

Castor Oil is the first oil I recommend to my clients. Dry hair don’t grow it breaks! Castor Oil increases moisture and stimulates hair growth when applicant to weak areas.

I literally keep at least four Denman Brushes in the salon at allllll times. It is a must for my a good blow dry, which then leads to an amazing silk out.

I don’t use a whole lot of nothing because a little goes a long way. I use like ONE drop of silk essentials and most cases before I use my flat iron, sometimes I even apply it to wet hair and blow it in.

 

 

 

 

As many of you know I specialize in minimum chemical usage in the salon. My speciality is color and blow outs (ceramic fusion). Although my clients don’t have relaxers majority of them wear their hair straight more often than textured so flat iron use is very important.

Types of Flat Irons

  • Ceramic
  • Titanium
  • Tourmaline

I remember when the industry really started pushing the use of Ceramic Flatirons a representative would come in the salon, offering us a “deal” and new information about what was new or upcoming. The irons that were 100% ceramic were running at least $300 at the time and still are for some of the ore popular. In my demographic the stylist were really skeptical because we were using the hot stove with the marcel irons so wrapping our minds around change didn’t happen that fast. So then we were introduced to Ceramic plated irons. Ceramic plated irons promised a smooth finish for a lower price but they are literally just that COATED. The metal plates are still present underneath.

Tourmaline irons are really popular as well. Tourmaline is a gemstone or mineral grounded up and used to cover the plates.

Nano Technology is another type you may see a lot and they only consist of tiny particles of ceramic.

Infrared Cermaic Irons have a very low level of ceramic in the iron.

Titanium Irons have become really popular because of how fast they heat up and the consistency of the shine and smoothness of the hair.

In the salon I use a mixture of Ceramic and Titanium depending on the texture and the density of the hair.  I DO NOT suggest titanium for home use. You just run to big of a risk for heat damage.

 

My first day of beauty school was December 2003 and I graduated March 2005. My classmates and I were one of the first groups of students that had Natural Hair as a module. We were given a textured mannequin and were taught how to press hair using the straightening comb, braid, and add weave on this mannequin. At the time relaxer free hair wasn’t as popular. There was literally just that handful of clients that had never had one and relied totally on the hot comb and the professional.

Now fast foward to 2017……

I am have been doing relaxer free hair for 9 years but these last 3 years I have been introduced to a new wave of clientele. They are full of concoctions hunny. They mixing air, avocados, eggs, peppermints, and laffy taffy.

😆​

Recently I had a new client come in and during our consultation I learned that she begin growing out her relaxer about six months ago. Her main goal was to strengthen the integrity of her hair because she loves hair color but with a relaxer her hair was breaking. SO to sum it all up she rather have color than relaxer. My follow up question was: What have been using on your hair during your transition? She had lots to say! My last and final question was: WHY SO MANY?  She was mixing her whole spice cabinet on her hair, waiting and watching for a miracle in the mirror.

Castor Oil, Argan Oil, Olive Oil, Peppermint Oil, Avocado Oil, and Coconut Oil(check previous post about this)

In my research I have found that majority of them have the same three promises: MOISTURE! REPAIR! STRENGTH!

Soooooo why use all 100 of them together. SIS pick one and save your money.


Castor Oil: Moisture +Growth Stimulation

Argan Oil: Moisture Tames Frizz +Fly Aways+ Vitamin A and E

Avocado Oil: Healthier to eat. Works best from the inside out.

Peppermint: anti microbial + anti inflammatory (reduce fungus that causes dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis

Olive Oil: Moisture + anti microbial  + anti inflammatory

One of the stylist in my salon had a client that had been using straight peppermint oil on her hair becauseeeeeeeee she enjoyed the tingly feeling but later realized she had burned a whole patch of her hair out. Castor Oil is #1 recommended because dry hair doesn’t progress. I typically recommend my clients to use it especially while wearing braids and “protective styles”. I also have my textured clients to add it into their budget friendly shampoos (shade lol). I use Argan Oil in the salon often I had 1 to 2 drops to my conditioner for my color clients especially.

 

Whew: I’m glad to have that off my chest. If you have any questions please leave them in the comments and share this good info with your family and friends.